Have you come across a weird word in a sewing pattern or blog, and you're really not sure what they're on about? Don't worry, we've got you! Here's a list of common sewing terms you'll encounter
Armscye
The armhole or the fabric edge where the sleeve is sewn. The armscye is technically the fabric edge rather than the armhole/gap itself.
Backstitch
Sewing a few stitches backwards then forwards at the start and end of a sewn seam. Backstitching secures a seam and stops the stitches coming undone.
Basting stitch/ baste
A temporary stitch to hold layers of fabric together. Basting (or tacking) stitches are much longer and looser than usual construction stitches which makes them easy to unpick and remove later.
Bias
Diagonal to the grain of fabric. When pattern pieces are cut “on the bias” it means they need to be placed diagonally on the fabric rather than straight. Woven fabric bias has more stretch/give than the straight grain.
Binding
A narrow strip of fabric that is folded around the raw edge of a seam and sewn in place to finish the edge.
Bobbin
The small spool of thread that sits in the bottom of the sewing machine, below the needle. The thread that comes from the bobbin creates the stitches that show on the underside of the sewn seam.
Casing
A fabric tube made to enclose elastic, drawstring etc. Casing is often placed at the waistline and typically made by folding the top edge down leaving enough of a gap to fit the elastic/drawstring through and then sewn in place.
Cut on fold
Used when a pattern piece is symmetrical. The full pattern piece is split down the centre with a vertical line, and the fabric you are cutting from is folded. The pattern piece is placed on the folded edge where indicated on the pattern. Once cut out, the piece is unfolded to reveal the entire symmetrical pattern piece.
Dart
Small v-shaped folds sewn into the fabric that add shaping to a garment. Darts are often used in the bust area or at the waistline, but can be added anywhere.
Ease
The allowance of space in a pattern for fit, comfort and style, over exact body measurements.
Edgestitch
A line of stitches used to neaten an edge. Similar to a topstitch but edgestitching is usually done very close to the edge/seam, usually 3mm (1/8 inch) from the edge.
Facing
A piece of fabric used to finish raw edges at the opening of a garment, like a neckline or armhole. A facing is used to neatly finish the raw edge instead of using a hem. The shape of the edge may make it easier to use facing instead of hemming. Usually the facing ends up on the inside of the garment, as such it can be made from plain or contrasting fabric.
Fusible interfacing
The underside of the facing is coated with a heat activated glue. The interfacing is ironed onto the wrong side of the fabric to make the fabric more stable. It will add firmness and structure to the garment, and also make it easier to sew.
Grain
The direction of the weave in fabric. Woven fabric is created by weaving threads together at right angles to each other - known as the warp and weft. Length-grain runs top to bottom, and cross-grain runs across the length of fabric.
Hem
A finishing method where a fabric edge is folded, usually to the wrong side/inside of the garment, and sewn in place to create a neat edge and to stop the raw fabric edge from unravelling.
Lining
A piece of material used to finish the inside of a garment. Linings can hide the seam and make the garments easier and more comfortable to wear. Often linings are made from a smooth or silk-like fabric which enables the outer part of the garment to slide and move easier when it is worn.
Notch
A small snip or wedge cut into the seam allowance on the edge of a garment piece. Notches are used so that pattern pieces are matched up in the correct position. They are commonly used in things like sleeves so they match up correctly with the main body piece.
Overlocker
A type of sewing machine, also known as a serger. It is used to finish the edges of fabric or seams with a multi-thread chain stitch. Overlocking can join pieces of fabric, trim the edge, and sew the edges at the same time.
Press
Using and iron or roller to create crisp fold lines for hems etc or to smooth the fabric along a seam.
Raw edge
The unfinished edge of fabric, usually where it has been cut. Woven fabrics tend to fray at their raw edges, whereas knit fabrics are more likely to curl and not fray.
Seam allowance
The space you leave between the edge of the fabric and the stitched seam line. Always check your seam allowance before you start sewing a pattern as using the wrong seam allowance can have a big effect on the finished size and shape. Some sewing patterns do not include a seam allowance, meaning when you trace the pieces onto your fabric, you'll need to add the seam allowance. You’ll find a pattern’s seam allowance at the beginning of the construction steps and also on the pattern pieces.
Selvedge/selvage
The full-width edges of fabric. On woven fabric the selvedge is usually more tightly woven to stop the edges from unravelling, and it may be labelled with the fabric make and designer information. On knit fabric the selvedge can be a little thicker or feel slightly stiff. On patterned fabrics, the selvedge often includes the name of the fabric, designer, and fabric composition.
Spool
Thread is purchased wound onto a spool. The spool sits either on the top or the side of the sewing machine. The thread that comes from the spool creates the stitches that show on the top side of the sewn seam.
Stretch
The greatest direction of stretch is usually on the crossgrain (along the length, rather than top to bottom) of the fabric. When cutting out stretch fabric garments it is important that the greatest direction of stretch is in the right place on the pattern pieces (usually it needs to go across the width of the body) to ensure the correct fit. Stretch direction (or grain) will be marked on pattern pieces with arrows and these indicate which way to pull the fabric to check the stretch is in the correct place. If a fabric is described as having two-way stretch, this means it only stretches along one grain (e.g. it will stretch left to right but not top to bottom). If a fabric is described as having four-way stretch, this means it stretches in both directions, usually of a similar amount.
Toile
Also known as a muslin, a toile is a draft version of a garment. A toile is usually made to test the fit of a garment using cheaper fabric such as calico.
Topstitch
Added to the outside of a garment, close to a seam edge. In garments a topstitch is usually a straight stitch added for decorative purposes, but it can also add structure and strength.
Understitch
Sewn along the edge of lining, in areas like necklines. An understitch secures the garment lining to the seam allowance so the line of stitching isn’t visible (unlike topstitching) and so the lining edge is kept hidden on the inside.